Rio Dulce/Livingston

After Antigua we had to make a quick stop in Guatemala City. From there our plan was to go to Livingston and find a beach. To get to Livingston we had to first go to Rio Dulce and then take a two hour boat ride down the river. While we were waiting for the boat in Rio Dulce we talked to two Californian attorneys who had just come from Belize and convinced us we should check it out. Fortunately the best way to get to Belize is from Livingston, just a 45 minute boat ride, so we were on track. But that gave us only one night in Livingston, which is too bad, it's a pretty cool place. Livingston is inhabited by the Garifuna, black Carribean people with their own language, food, music and dance.

Down the Rio Dulce

We rode down the river with a couple of Dutch

The coco loco. Don't I look crazy?!

Antigua/ Lava

From Lake Atitlan we took a mini bus to Antigua, the old capital of Guatemala. We weren't wild about the city itself. I know this is stuck up and rude, but as a general rule we don't like other traveling gringos and Antigua is full of gringos! Hundreds, thousands! I'm sure they're all nice people, but...well... We did meet a great couple from Whales, though, who are on their way around the world right now, hi Sarah and Chris! Anyway, we were there to see the lava, so we jumped on a bus to Pacaya, an active volcano where guides lead visitors right up to the lava flows. I can't imagine all the litagation this would cause in the US. We got so close that we could roast marshmallows and Brad's leg hair got singed.

Lake Atitlan

After dropping out of Spanish school we headed straight to Lake Atitlan, a huge crater lake surrounded by volcanoes. Scattered around the lake there are 12 towns, we stayed in Jaibalito, the smallest. Lake Atitlan is one of the most beautiful places I've been. I'm going to put it up there with my top five favorite places, which after some serious consideration I've decided are:
1) Parque Tyrona, Colombia
2) Hvar, Croatia
3) Ireland, all of it
4) Lake Atitlan, Guatemala
5) Pacific City, Oregon
This list will surely change, still a lot to see.
Anyway...we didn't end up doing a whole lot with our days, just sort of wandered around the towns we stopped in (you can only get from town to town by boat). One day we went horseback riding, again! Can you believe it? Turns out we like horseback riding. But this horseback ride was easier. We went at a nice, steady pace and there were no mountains to climb or rivers to cross. The horses took us through town, passed some farms and finally to a beach for really chilly swimming.
We also spent a day shopping. We each missed a best friends' wedding while we were away and were on a mission to find wedding presents. I hate to brag (no I don't) but I am an amazing bargainer. Brad plays his part well too, he shakes his head and looks tough.
We also stumbled onto a rowdy celebration. The town of San Pedro celebrated San Pedro day with a bunch of fireworks and dancing. I was a little dazed by all the commotion and almost walked right into a pit of exploding fireworks. I jumped back and this guys says to me, "Cuidado (careful)" and I'm thinking, "Yeah, thanks for the warning."
The last boat left for Jaibalito at 5 every evening, so we usually grabbed a bottle of wine to have while playing cards, which we did for hours. Hours and hours. Brad and I both have some serious gin rummy skills (here I am bragging again) after all that practice.
We stayed at the Volcano Lodge, which serves dinner every night in the dining room that is shared by all the guests. The first two nights we had dinner with a really nice family from Virgina, but after that the guests were pretty lame, which just gave me and Brad an excuse to leave the table and resume our card game.



We found this fruit in San Pedro, it was just as delicious as it looks. I can't remember the name, but the lady said it comes from a cactus.
People watching the San Pedro celebration from a safe distance

Water taxi

Santa Maria

Midweek in Xela a group of Spanish school students climbed Santa Maria, the volcano looming over Xela. I mentioned it before, but I'll say it again. It was the hardest thing I've ever done in my life! Fortunately most of the people were med students, so I felt safe. We were led by Henry, who went to a tour agency to get the map you'll see below. So detailed it was impossible to get lost.

chicken bus

Brad and I took a chicken bus to Lake Atitlan. Chicken buses are old American school buses where they stuff people inside and put the luggage and other stuff on top (we were the only ones with luggage, everyone else had bags or bundles of produce). When we first got on the bus we turned around to leave because there were no seats. The driver stopped us and told us to just squeeze in with the guys in the second row. So, at this point there are three people in every seat and I figure we'll be on our way, but they're still cramming people on and the driver is hanging out the door hollering and trying to entice people onto our ride.

So, school buses are made for kids and Brad was uncomfortable. At one point during the trip he decided to stand, but the isle was so crowded that he ended up sitting on my chest. He didn't mean to and didn't even realize it until he heard me gasping, "Brad, I can't breathe."

"Oh, sorry." But he didn't have anywhere to go.

We were on the bus for a little over two hours. Getting off was one of the best moments of my life.

And for the first time ever....a video! I took this on our walk to the bus station in Xela.